Part 2

The Dress Shirt

In the last blog, we talked about the many different parts of the suit jacket that you can customize according to your style and personality and now, we are going to look closer on how to customize another part of a suit that is considered the most versatile: the dress shirt.

For most men, dress shirt is an everyday staple. You probably have plenty of them on your wardrobe without realizing the details on each shirt. Two obvious details are the fabric and the length of the sleeve. Cotton is one of the most common one, linen for more breathable option and flannel to combat the cold weather. As for sleeves, you probably use short sleeves for those hot days and long sleeves for the cooler days. Customizing your shirt goes way beyond choosing the right fabric and the length of the sleeves.

We are now going to go into details on the parts of shirt you can customize. This will include choosing the right fit and other specific details such as collar and plackets.

The Fit

As we already know, the biggest benefit of custom-tailored clothes is the fit. It is specifically true for the dress shirt. Some of you may have an unfortunate experience in the store where the shirt that is supposedly your size doesn’t fit you. Maybe they look big on you or the back of the shirt is ballooning showing the excess fabric. Fixing this kind of problem is likely to be as expensive as tailoring a new shirt. This is why shirt has to fit perfectly on you.

Now that you know the importance of perfect fit, you are ready choose the fit style to achieve your desired look.

The Classic Fit (Regular Fit)

This fit focuses on the comfort of the user. It usually allows you to move around with no constriction. It may be less fashionable, but it will be a great choice if you are looking for something that you can wear all day with your jacket. This fit normally come with two pleats on the back near the yoke of your shirt.

The Slim Fit

Many businesses today are no longer requiring men to wear suit to work. If you don’t have to wear suit to work, you probably choose the slim fit over the regular fit. Slim fit looks more fashionable so if you are going for this style, slim fit will accentuate your shape.

Shirt Collar Styles

Collar is the first part of your shirt that is visible for other people. Therefore, it is crucial to choose the right collar that enhance your look. Commonly, there are 6 different collar types.

The Classic Collar

As it says in the name, the classic collar is timeless. Shirt with this type of collar is a must-have item on your wardrobe. This collar will go well with any types of shirt and they look great with necktie.

The Spread Collar

If you are looking for a shirt for casual use, we recommend you to have a spread collar. They will look great with or without necktie.

The Button-Down Collar

Aside from the classic collar, the button-down collar is widely used for shirt. This collar will look great for a more formal look.

The Club Collar

The use of club collar dated back in the last 19^th century Britain. Unlike the other type of collar, the collar come with rounded corners. While it looks great for any occasions, most people choose this collar for a sportier look.

The Winged Collar

This collar is exclusively worn with a tuxedo which you will normally pair with a bowtie.

The Mandarin Collar

If you are looking for a casual look to wear with chinos, the mandarin collar shirt will be a great choice for you. However, this type of shirt will also look great if you choose to wear them with the mandarin suit.  If you want to stand out in crowd then this is the perfect one for you.

Shirt Cuff Styles

Cuffs are another part of your dress shirt that will be easily noticed by your friends or colleagues.

Traditionally, French cuff is used in formal events. Therefore, if you are attending a formal event such as weddings or galas this will be a great choice for you. In a black-tie event that called for tuxedo, your tuxedo shirt will most likely to come with French cuffs. Since French cuff required cufflinks, you can personalize your look depending on the occasions.

For both everyday use and formal events, you can choose rounded cuff or angled cuff. You can choose whether you want 1 button on each cuff or 2 buttons. If you do not want to go your way buying cufflinks, the rounded cuff and the angled cuff will be a better choice for you.

Plackets

The placket is one of the main elements of the shirt. Although you may cover it with your jacket, the placket is still in the center of position of your shirt and should not be neglected when you want to customize your shirt. There are 3 different plackets that you can choose from: traditional placket which shows the fold and the stitch box of the buttons, French placket or seamless placket and hidden placket that feature an extra flap that hides your buttons.

Conclusion

Just as jacket, when you order a custom-made dress shirt, it comes with a highly customization options. Your shirt will be carefully designed for you to fit your unique style. It may be easy to buy a shirt off the rack but you will not get the perfect shirt made just for you.

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Part 1

The Suit Jacket

Many working men today own at least one suit but to decide on making a custom-made suit is not an easy decision. Custom tailoring is always perceived to be a luxury item that are expensive and unnecessary. However, there are many benefits of custom-tailored clothing in comparison to any clothing that you can pull off the rack.

The first and biggest benefit of custom-tailoring is the fit that it gives. Each suit is drafted for you alone which will provide you an insurance that the suit will be on a perfect fit for you and as a result, accentuate your look. Another big benefit of custom tailoring is the freedom to choose the kind of fabric and style you want for your suit. This means, your tailor can provide you with various options that make your suit to uniquely fit you. You do not have to worry that you will bump into someone who would wear the same suit you got from the chain shops.

There are many customization that you can take advantage from custom tailoring and in this article, we are going to speak of the main part of a suit – the Jacket. We will break down each sections of the jacket in which you can customize.

When wearing a suit, your jacket is always made from the same materials that will match your pants. In contrary to this restriction, you can customize most parts of this jacket.

The Style

Two most common styles for the jacket are single-breasted and double-breasted jacket. Most of us are familiar with the single-breasted jacket. Single-breasted suit comes with either 1,2, 3, or 4 buttons. Single-breasted suit is very versatile, and you can wear them in most occasions. However, the double-breasted jacket has gained popularity recently. A double-breasted jacket has an overlap front flaps that would go across your body with parallel column of buttons. The most common number of buttons used are 4 but you can also choose 6-button jacket. Unfortunately, it is not easy to wear a double-breasted suit. Although they are stylish, they are not worn in just any events. The fit for double-breasted suit has to be perfect to make it look good. Not everyone can pull this out but if you want to wear this style, you should be absolutely confident and comfortable wearing it.

The Fit

Traditionally, suits are made for regular fit but today, men may prefer the slim fit over the regular fit. While the regular fit is looser on your body, slim fit on the other hand is cut to fit one’s body shape and it is normally tighter to accentuate your figure. Whatever you choose, keep your body shape in mind. When in doubt, you should definitely consult your tailor on which one suit you best.

Lapels

Lapels are the folded collar on the front of your jacket and there are three main types of suit lapels: notched lapel, peak lapel, and shawl lapel. The notched lapel is the most common lapels and they go well with any types of suit and any body types. The peak lapels are usually chosen for a formal suit and double-breasted suit always use this kind of lapels. Peak lapels show the elegance of your attire and helps you to stand out. Shawl lapels are typically reserved for tuxedos and not for an everyday wear. Shawl lapels can be made of different fabric and they are relatively thin in width in comparison to other types of lapels.

Lining

Lining is a thinner layer of cloth that is sewn between the canvas (the inside) of the jacket and the interior jacket. Most suits have lining and the most common fabric for lining is silk. The inner lining adds weight and structure to your jacket. The lining can also give you more protection and comfort while wearing your jacket. However, you can always customize your lining. You can choose to have it fully lined, half lined or no lining at all. Unlined jacket will be lighter and more breathable comparing to the lined jacket. If you want to have lining on your jacket, make sure you color and pattern coordinated with your suit fabric to give a bit of character to your suit.

Conclusion

This time, we have shown you ways to customize your jacket. In the next article we would like to guide you to customize your dress pants, shirt and vest. By customizing every single parts of your suit, you can get the exact type of suit you want. It gives you the freedom to express yourself and show off your character in your attire. With the advantages that custom-tailored suit has to offer, you will be able to always look your best.

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